Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Washington Column South Face, 10/07

Corbin is back from work so I have another psyked partner! We want to try the H-dizzle/El Cap linkup but the short days are kinda a buzz kill so we decide on something easier. After mulling it over in the lodge amphitheater one morning we decide to for the south face of the column. Good afternoon climb right?
In our usual slightly cocky style, we neglect headlamps. Its only a grade V though right? We leave the lodge after noon on our bikes headed for the awhanee. We stash our bikes and head up the trail to the column. We bring less than 10 cams, one 30m rope, 1 aider and jugs with aiders, and a liter of water each, that's about it. At least it makes for a light casual hike.
Corbin leads off with me following 100 feet below him on our mega short rope. Trying new things you know? We cruise past easily 7 people on the first 3 pitches, simuling the whole time until we hit dinner ledge. Once again we pass more people on the southern man bypass. At least everyone is willing to let us pass!
Here is the only place our short rope fucks us. We come close of not reaching a belay and that slows us down. After the aid is over its all good again and we're flying again. We cruise the remaining pitches and tag the summy just before dark. 5 hours after starting!
The descent was run at mach speed to beat the darkness but by the end I'm using my cell phone and Corbin a lighter to make sure we don't rush off the edge of a cliff. But it's all good and we're back in time for a lodge store dinner!

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