Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Tangerine Trip VI A2+, El Cap 8/07

I was 0n a roll. I couldn't stop, I wouldn't stop. I had a terrible thirst for big wall adventure that I couldn't quench. So once again I hooked up with my best bro Ivo for another run up the Captain. We decided on the Trip so we could try and break the record of 10:58. Nothing like trying to one up our friends Cedar and Ammon, just a bit of friendly competition. We were ready in no time all that was stalling us was our inability to round out our safety kit. We wandered all over the valley in search of the needed supplies. Finally we procured our gear and headed for the base.
After yet another restless night we started up the route. Ivo took the first block and got us through the wandering lower pitches with ease. Ivo did the downward sloping 4th pitch entirely by penjis! Awesome to watch him running on a steep wall to clip tat on pins. Not as awesome for me to follow. Mega-gripped about the quality of the tat and pins, I cautiously backed myself up alot on this pitch, eating up time as Ivo waited to switch leaders at the belay.
Finally arriving at the belay, I took the rack and headed off on the classic 5th pitch. Damn it's good. I lead until the ledge halfway up at pitch 9. The omega link cams were bad ass on these pitches! After another gear swap Ivo once again took over the lead 9 hours after starting.
We now knew it wouldn't be a record ascent but so what we're having fun! Ivo took us above the rotten corner pitch, thank god. I hate that pitch. No fun and rotten free/aid combo. I got the bolt ladders and summit arches. We topped out in a very respectable time of 16 hours. Not bad and my fastest ascent of el cap to date. So we scurried down and Ivo went off to the OR show in SLC for the week. I starting getting ready for another run up a wall!

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